Nepal's Extraordinary Countryside

A short journey

Most of the non-Nepali people I know think of one thing when I tell them I am in Nepal—mountains. And it is of course true that more than 2/3rds of the country is made up of the mighty Himalayas, including the highest peak on the planet, Everest. But that also misses a big part of the picture.

Over the last few days, I had the luxury of joining several friends on a short trip into the countryside. Five of us piled comfortably into a medium-sized SUV and headed out of the bustling city of Kathmandu, through dusty Bhaktapur, and into Dhulikhel. Located about forty-five-minutes’ drive from Kathmandu, Dhulikhel is a small suburb nestled in some relatively low, but beautiful hills. Just beyond Dhulikhel Hospital, we turned onto Highway 06. Passing by the hospital, I indulged a fun little memory about the time my wife-to-be and I met the doctor who founded and built that hospital into a truly exemplary facility. She and I had lunch with Dr. Ram; it was sometime in 2021. As a result of a luggage miscue, I realized that not only would I be wildly underdressed for an introduction to such a prominent man, I also had different colored socks on, which were plainly visible given I was wearing shorts. It turns out, thankfully, that Dr. Ram has an incredible sense of humor and was not offended by my frumpishness. But I digress.

Highway 06 quickly climbs Chaukot Hill, revealing an incredible view of the countryside. The road was mostly in good shape, with just a few sections requiring extra care. For the next thirty minutes or so, our vehicle slowly climbed upwards revealing stunning views with every curve. Our trip’s first day was rather rainy and foggy, causing tendrils of clouds to creep around some of the hills.

Upon climbing over the hills, we continued on through essentially a long valley, our route running parallel most of the way to the Roshi Khola river. The entire area is scenic, containing both incredible landscapes and some really interesting structures. Much of the area is farmland, with some small municipalities settled along the highway in various places. In one spot, I even saw an EV charging station. While many roadside shops dot the highway offering food and drink, travelers would be wise to carefully select where they stop to indulge themselves. While Nepal has made great strides in food safety over the last few years, foreign stomachs may not agree with some of the fares in the rural areas. For us, we chose to eat at the Momo Factory in Namobuddha Municipality.

It seems our group might have gained celebrity status there. For some reason, they had an in-house photographer at the ready and he made sure to capture several shots of us. Watch for four dashing Nepali guys and a long-haired American guy to be featured in future Momo Factory commercials. Anyway, I ordered a spicy chicken momo soup. It was excellent.

Belly’s full, we resumed the drive through more painted landscapes. As you might have already guessed, the photos in this article were taken by me, are relatively terrible, and do not properly convey the beauty I witnessed. Unless you opt to take your own trip, this is what you’re stuck with. Sorry.

The rain continued throughout the drive, which did not diminish the enjoyment one bit. As we reached Kusheshwor, our path turned along the Sunkoshi River. One friend told me the “Sun” (सुन) in the name means golden, and indicates the color of the water. On the second day, when the sun crested the hills in its full glory, this proved true. Finally seeing the Sunkoshi River in person was a profound experience for me, as I had mapped this river as part of my emergency alert mobile application project. I felt a kind of familiarity with it that now seemed more deserved.

Eventually we reached our destination, the village of Mulkot. We stayed at the Kwality Beach Resort, itself perched right upon the river bank. Kwality is a brand name, but it aptly describes the place. Built right at the bottom of a huge hill, upon which highway 06 winds its way upward leading to the India border or further east to Biratnagar, the resort offers resplendent views of both the hills and the river. The room was clean and well air-conditioned, and the food they served was very tasty.

View of the Sunkoshi River on the first day.

Notice the winding road on the hill behind the resort.

As I mentioned, on the second day the clouds had vanished and the sun shone brightly. The resort’s pool found a lot of occupants on this day, and the shaded areas near the river also offered some respite from the heat. Even some of the four-legged inhabitants found the weather quite inviting, like this guy:

Another cool feature on the resort grounds was a replica house built in the traditional architecture once used in the area (the larger building).

There was an actual purpose to the trip beyond mere relaxation. I met several people who work in technology, and am better for having done so. We didn’t talk shop the entire time, there was too much laughter for that. But when we did, I realized I was in the presence of many very brilliant people. In future articles, I will write about some of the work they are doing, if they will let me. For now though, I wanted to share this little story because Nepal offers so many fascinating places to see. One need not climb into the mountains or ever set foot on one of Nepal’s infamous mountain roads to enjoy the visual beauty, fascinating culture and exquisite food. If you’re looking for that once-in-a-lifetime trip, come spend your money and time here. You won’t regret it.

As you can see, the Sunkoshi River really is golden.

The country road about 10 km from Mulkot.

Nightlife at the Kawlity Resort’s pool.

The view from the riverside patio (that’s a cable bridge to the right).

Read about some other wonderful places in Nepal here:

Find more about me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, or Mastodon.